For two cities within a city Berlin has so much culture, history and nightlife to experience 48 hours hardly seems adequate. This guide will help to give you the most out of it in a short space of time.
For close to 300 years Berlin has been the centre point in almost every modern historical European conflict. Unless you are familiar with the orchestrations of the Franco-Prussian War, the establishment of the first German Empire, World War I, World War II, the Cold War and the reunification, not to mention the figures behind the events, the weight of the history alone can seem totally overwhelming.
Then there is the intensive artistic side. Make your way through museums and galleries that display ancient Persian works through to the avant garde collections of modern artists. Travelling from one side of the city to the other takes you on a journey through 20th Century politics, from fascism to communism to democracy.
It is recommended that to be able to gain a full picture in an interesting and in depth way to take a guided walking tour. There are several well respected and reputable companies offering comprehensive walking tours that cover all aspects of the history of Berlin. Some specialise in particular periods but a more generalised overview is preferable. The knowledge of the guides helps to make the history come alive in a way no guide book ever could.
To familiarise yourself with the central layout you can cover the main interest sites by foot either as part of a tour or on you own armed with a comprehensive guidebook, that probably weighs as much as you do.
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Few people realise that the Cold War west Berlin was actually more of an island, east Berlin merely surrounding it as the city itself lies in the eastern half of Germany. ‘West’ Berlin was connected by a transport corridor to the western half of the country.
Start yourself off in the centre of the ‘capitalist west’ with the sights and sounds of Zoo Station (Bahnhof Zoo), made famous by the U2 song. This is the stop next to the Zoologischer Garten, home of the city’s zoo. The unique layout has the animals hemmed in with moats rather than fences and some are even left to roam free.
The area is also around the corner from the Ku’Damm, the rather more expensive shopping district with huge mall type department stores.
Next door is the Tiergarten, the central green space of Berlin, where many of the city office workers like to spend their lunchbreak on sunny days letting it all hang out, and more often than not completely naked. You don’t need to run for the nearest cop shop as they are merely partaking in the ‘frei korpo kultur’ or free body culture.
On the way through the Tiergarten you may spy between the trees the rather impressive Seigessaule, a 70m high golden statute. Some may recognise it as the statue that features in the Wim Wenders film Wings of Desire, and also as the heady focal point of the Love Parade. The column is decorated at the base by bronze reliefs depicting the Prussian victories over Denmark, Austria and France, made from melted down captured cannons.
Continuing eastwards down Strasse des 17 Juni you will arrive in front of the Brandenburg Gate. This has undergone extensive restoration recently returning it to its former glory as a triumphal arch. This was the symbol of Berlin during the cold war, sitting forlornly in no-mans land between the divisive walls. The goddess Victory stands in her chariot drawn by four horses that look rather like the ones seen in Paris atop the Arc du Triomphe du Carousel and in Venice above the door of St Mark’s Basilica.
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The newly revamped Reichstag is close by, the transparent dome arching above the debating chamber of the German parliament. Entry is free and you can climb the spiral walkway to the top of the dome for a view out over the city.
Further to the right of the Brandenburg gate lies the completed Holocaust memorial. This outdoor site covers 19,000 square metres and consists of 2,711 granite blocks of varying height conceived by American architect Peter Eisenman. It has provoked some controversy throughout its construction, not the least being how it sits over part of the former Nazi HQ bunker complex.
Heading further into Berlin-Mitte you will reach Checkpoint Charlie. Little remains of the original checkpoint, the hut standing in the road is a replica. There were three checkpoints between east and west, this was the only one with vehicle access.
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The Checkpoint Charlie museum is small and houses a collection of wall memorabilia as well as harrowing recounts of survivors and non survivors attempts at crossing over. Across the road is Caf
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